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The latter was founded amid 2020s lockdown doldrums by freelance trouser maker Jake Wigham, who prefers a fuller, traditional cut, which he says is completely essential for what I would call a proper button-down. Wigham draws inspiration from a number of classic American brands including Gant, Brooks Brothers and Troy Guild Shirtmakers, as well as period documents

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For instance, Romine says, its more difficult to remove ink from quick-absorbing fabrics such as cotton, polyester and synthetic textiles than it is to remove from, say, leather

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