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By the beginning of the 20th century, the industry had morphed into a steady employer of unmasked black vaudevillians and set black performers on the road to mainstream acceptance

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Wide second layer of gathered fabric around the lower section with shorter ruffle on the hem

Then came the first of many models who wore fellow travelers on their backs like knapsacks, trussed to them with padded straps, face up, face down, upside-down or trailing: women bearing women, often in gymnastic contortions

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