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Between the years 1715 and 1720 the coats with the full skirts gathered into radiating fan-shaped pleats from the hip buttons were further emphasized by stiffening the skirts of both the coat and vest with buckram to give them a lamp shade outline as if to rival the ladies hoops. From the beginning of the century the general tendency was for sleeves to lengthen toward the wrists, where they were turned back in deep split cuffs

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